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Step-by-Step Raw Workflow
By JR Geoffrion
As a wedding photographer who captures and processes over 750 raw images per event and prides himself on achieving the highest
image quality possible, workflow plays a strategic role in my business. My workflow must be predictable, repeatable, efficient,
and consistently yield superior image quality.
In this step-by-step article, I will share the raw workflow I have developed after having processed well over 100,000 raw images.
I will also suggest software to complete the various steps.
Although my workflow is optimized for my wedding photography business, it can easily be adapted for amateurs and other
professionals alike.
1. Download and Back Up
a) Download all images from the memory cards to a single folder using an external reader - I carry enough memory cards to ensure that I can capture all the images I could ever need without having to delete, download, or reformat on-site (a recipe for disaster).
b) Backup images on an external drive or optical media according to your backup strategy - To automatically create the external backup on an external hard drive, I use SyncBack software (http://www.2brightsparks.com/syncback/). In addition, my workstation is internally configured in RAID 1 to provide a first line of defense against potential internal hard drive failure by creating a "live" backup on a redundant internal drive. My images are also segregated on a separate physical drive than my system and other files in order to isolate the damage of any potential failure. My backup strategy also includes a second external hard drive that is only backed up weekly to allow me to return to a previous version of the files should I need to. An offsite backup or copy should also be kept in case of disaster.
2. Synchronize, Edit, Sort, and Rename
a) Synchronize images from multiple cameras based on their EXIF Capture Date - Because I work with multiple cameras at all times,
images must be synchronized. I either use iView MediaPro (http://www.iview-multimedia.com) or Adobe Bridge to perform this task.
In Adobe Bridge or iView, select View -> Sort -> Date Created (this will sort images from multiple cameras according to the time
each image was shot on their respective clocks). Should you forget to synchronize and adjust your camera clocks, iView has a nice
feature that allows you to adjust the EXIF Capture Time of all your images by any amount. For example, you could add 1 minute 21
seconds to all your Capture Date EXIF information from a camera to match the other camera.
b) Sort selected images to better tell the story of the day - In order to tell the story of the day, I move certain specific
images. For example, I may move the images of the outside of the church before the ceremony or move detail images of the cake
just before the cake cutting. Manually and individually drag the thumbnails you wish sorted differently to their new location
in Bridge or iView.
c) Edit images - I use either the label or rating system of iView or Bridge to rank all my images and help me select those I will
keep and those I will discard.
d) Rename all files based on the synchronizating, sorting, and editing - Now that the files are in the order I wish to present
them to my client, I rename them from 001 (the leading zeros are important to appropriately sort the files). Simply select all
images (CTRL-A on Windows). In Bridge, select Tools -> Batch Rename. From the Batch Rename menu select "Rename in same folder"
under the "Destination Folder" and "Sequence Number", "1", and "Three Digits" under "New Filenames". In iView, select Action ->
Batch Rename.
3. Profile and Calibrate
a) Load custom camera profile - Several raw converters allow photographers to load their own custom camera profile or to
calibrate the existing internal one. My converters of choice are CaptureOne (http://www.phaseone.com), DxO (http://www.dxo.com),
and CameraRaw (http://www.adobe.com). CaptureOne offers an efficient workflow, DxO incorporates optical corrections and noise
reduction, and CameraRaw allows for a seamless and integrated workflow with Photoshop.
b) Confirm monitor accuracy
4. White Balance
a) Perform white balance adjustment - For images not balanced with a solution such as the ExpoDisc (http://www.expoimaging.net),
identify images that contains a neutral area and use the "white click" tool. With wedding images, the groom's shirt, the bride's
veil, or the white of the eyes are typically good starting points. Once balanced, apply the adjustment to a range of images
exhibiting similar lighting characteristics. Lather, rinse, repeat.
5. Apply Tone Curves
a) Control the dynamic range through curves - Many photographers confuse their camera's dynamic range with the perceived dynamic
range. In other words, some photographers believe that their raw converter is perfectly optimized to extract all of the camera's
dynamic range and translate it to print. For example, most raw converters will provide outputs of different contrast using the
same image and settings due to their different internal tone curve. The idea behind this step is to retrieve details by
increasing contrast of flat images and compressing highlights and shadows of high contrast images by applying a mild "S"
and "inverted S" curve to remap the contrast.
6. Adjust Exposures
a) Adjust exposure based on the primary subject - Most camera meters are set to measure the entire scene and calculate the
correct exposure based on a sophisticated algorithm. As such, the exposure of images that do not conform to the camera metering
mode algorithm can typically be improved upon (on the other hand, incident meters typically return the right exposure in skilled
hands). Note that if the exposure needs a strong adjustment, it is possible that the white balance will need to be re-adjusted.
7. Denoise and Sharpen
a) Decrease noise and sharpen - My workflow includes removing noise from each high ISO image. The threshold for "high ISO"
typically starts in the 400-800 ISO range but depends on the camera, exposure, white balance, and raw converter used. For
best results, defining the noise characteristics of your camera and raw converter combination with a noise target is recommended.
Noise Ninja (http://www.picturecode.com) is a great tool for noise reduction and also comes as a plug-in (DxO has a built-in
noise reduction module).
b) Apply sharpening - Since most DSLR are equipped with an anti-aliasing filter, sharpening should be applied to reverse the
blurring effects of the filter. Raw conversion sharpening should only target to counter the effects of the filter. Further
sharpening should be performed based on the size of the final output.
8. Customize
a) Apply signature look - As a result of a series of steps I apply to all my images, my images have a very distinct look to them.
You can develop your own signature look by modifying the contrast, saturation, profile, sharpness, etc. and systematically
apply this formula to all your images.
9. Convert and Output
a) Output to desired format(s) - The key at this step is to select the desired output size and file format and simply batch
all of the adjustments done to date. It is also possible to output multiple sizes and file formats for the various uses
possible (proofs, prints, web, etc.).
10. Archive
a) Archive files and adjustments - Now that the images are sorted, renamed, and corrected, follow your backup strategy to
save not only the files, but also the various settings and adjustment files.
My raw workflow typically ends here and I then move into post processing enhancements and retouching. However, I may go back to
the raw workflow to output black-and-white images directly from the raw file.
JR Geoffrion Bio
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